26 August - Day 8

Veronika, who had stayed at the albergue across the street in Lorca had left early. I found her later at a fountain before Villatuerta and was going to the doctor to have her feet checked. She cannot go on. I walked through the town and through Estella, not finding anything open. I got to Irache and went to its famous wine fountain, only to find it was dry. I got a picture anyway. I went into the wine museum and then into the monastery.


"La Rioja es un campo de viñedos,
y 'un vaso de bon vino' ensangrentado.
Brinda conmigo, peregrina amante,
hasta el umbral del vértigo; bebamos
por lo que hemos tenido, lo que fluye,
y lo que ha de venir; por ese grano
que germinara un día, inadvertido,
que se ha hecho miel dorada; eleva el brazo
y oprime el cuerpo dúctil de la bota,
que su hilo rojo se entrelace en trago."


On I went to Villamayor de Monjardin.


The hospitaleros were awesome.


The albergue wa ancient, very basic, mattresses next to each other. Many people from Holland, France, Germany, Spain were there. I got to hear from another French guy about American politics (sigh). I took it well. Besides he thinks I can speak French fluently (although I told him to speak slowly for me) and as he went on and on I thought about other things. Niall, from Lorca arrived and was glad he stayed.
I was quite hungry since I had not eaten all day. We all ate at the town´s only cafe, the Menu del Peregrino and it was very good. Served by a very pregnant woman. Paella (mostly rice) for primer plato, then meatballs in sauce and meat with veggies for segundo plato. Wine, bread and a peach for dessert which I saved for tomorrow. We learned a toast. Para arriba, para abajo, para el centro y adentro. Niall enjoyed that one.


We all chatted for a while and the hospitaleros served us a little Patxaran and we toasted to a great Camino. The hospitaleros gave us this kind gesture which adds to the magic. In bed I had stereo snorers. A french guy to my right and Marina to my left. Sometimes they were in unisom others they were opposite to each other. I was awake for a bit and kept trying to figure mathematically their rhythms. BTW, the climbs were tough again today. As one enters into a village or town, the road climbs up to it. Seems that way in every village. Makes for a tough end. Many times I struggle with these climbs and think what the hell! Then the end of day comes, and I feel so accomplished and in the company of great peoople and think how great this is! Harmony.